When Bordeaux kitchens open up to the world

When restaurants open their kitchens to refugee cooks, the result is the Refugee Food Festival. In Bordeaux, the organizers are looking to register their work beyond this simple media event. They also accompany the integration of refugees, like Fatma Mulai. Originally from Western Sahara, the young woman arrived in Bordeaux in a van with her very young son. She is now an employee of a Bordeaux institution. The story of a particularly successful integration through cooking. 

“I arrived in Bordeaux on March 28, 2016,” the young woman hammers out in French mixed with Arabic and Spanish. She remembers this date as if it were yesterday, she who fled Western Sahara, stayed several years in Algeria, before arriving in Bordeaux after a long and painful journey. “I didn’t know anyone here, I didn’t speak French, my son was two years and four months old, he cried a lot, he was hungry. I went to the COS – Centre for Refugees and Asylum Seekers – but it was closed. A man offered me accommodation in the Sahrawi camp. We were only three women, it was dirty, I only spent one night there! Only one night! The next day, the COS was open and I was able to apply for asylum”. 

The asylum seeker’s nightmare

With the asylum application filed, Fatma has yet to find a place to sleep. Questionable experiences with unscrupulous people, hotels 20 kilometers from Bordeaux, return to the Sahrawi camp… Fatma has a hard time including to find food, “I begged for the first time in my life”. The CADA (reception centre for asylum seekers) finally find her a room in an apartment in Villenave d’Ornon. The other women come from Albania, Kosovo, Libya and Chad. She stays there for 10 months and her son goes to school. 

In February 2017, a studio in the centre of Bordeaux is found. She moves in, everything seems to be going well, when her request for asylum is refused: “I lived through it very badly, I cried a lot” … But it takes more than that for Fatma to get discouraged, she clings on, explains her situation “to justice” and finally gets a positive response a few months later. 

Now Fatma lives legally in France, she can look for work. Professional chef, she hopes to find a job in her line of work. When she sees the Refugee Food Festival poster, she thinks it might be a lead. Sandrine Clément-Rivoltella, one of the volunteers of the Bordeaux event, introduces her to the managers of Chez Alriq, a famous Bordeaux “guinguette”. The current is flowing and one evening in June 2018, as part of the Refugee Food Festival, Fatma treats 80 people to lamb couscous. 

Once the event is over, Sandrine continues to accompany Fatma in its endeavours. Alriq’s team would like to hire the young Sahrawi but there are no jobs available in the kitchen… except for dishwashing. “It’s a transitional phase, says Cathy, in charge of reception and programming, Fatma works magnificently well and is always in a good mood. It hasn’t been difficult to welcome her because the people who work at Alriq all have very different profiles. We do things together. We help each other out. It’s in kindness that we can work well.” An approach shared by Katy who also works at the guinguette “This is not the first time we’ve hired refugees. Here, it’s a special place, a place where everyone can find their place. This notion of benevolence and mutual respect is at the heart of the project created by Rose and Alriq in 1990”. If Sandrine would have preferred Fatma to find her place behind the stove from the outset, Fatma, she doesn’t complain: she has a work contract, a salary, benevolent colleagues: “I would like to stay here. I am not looking to become rich but to live. Real wealth is life!”. 

The Refugee Food Festival

Beyond the event

The Refugee Food Festival is an event that takes place in June in several European cities at the same time. In Bordeaux, after four successful editions (a total of 14 restaurants mobilized and 18 chefs seeking asylum welcomed), the organizers, all volunteers, are looking to register their work beyond the simple media event. While Sandrine Clément-Rivoltella, the kingpin of the project, brings together restaurants and refugee chefs for the duration of the festival, she is also committed beyond that by following and accompanying the refugee chefs over the long term. Fatma is one of those whom Sandrine has accompanied, as is Jawad, who came from Iraq and is now a cook in a clinic in Bordeaux. 

Practical information

Refugee Food festival

http://www.refugeefoodfestival.com

Guinguette Chez Alriq

www.laguinguettechezalriq.com

© Sonia Moumen (exchange reporter) for Champs Libres, member of Kus Alliance France

7 family recipes 

A digital and gourmet tourist offer on the right bank of Bordeaux

Creating tourist routes in peripheral urban areas is a relatively new idea. Involving the inhabitants and local structures in the design and animation of these same routes, even more so !

Dive into a new form of tourism with 7 family recipes, one of the three experiments of the Courts Circuits (“Short Tours”) project. 

While the tourist and heritage resources of the city center of Bordeaux are being taken over by the inhabitants, excursionists and tourists, many field actors are wondering how the peripheral areas of the UNESCO World Heritage site could also benefit from a part of this flow. This is the case of the right bank of Bordeaux. Popular and mixed, the towns and districts that make up the bank have long remained off the radar of tourist attraction. It must be said that the image of this part of the agglomeration has not always been good. Marked by poverty, unemployment and a large collective and social housing, this peripheral area of Bordeaux is one of the so-called “sensitive” or “priority” urban districts of the government’s Urban Policy. 

Creating the desire for discovery

In this context, it is not easy to create the desire for discovery… And yet, these territories have resources that are just waiting to be revealed. At any rate, this is what Le LABA is doing with the Courts Circuits (“Short Tours”) project, supported as a social innovation by the Regional Council of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. 

The objective of Courts Circuits is simple: to build and propose a digital proximity tourist offer on the right bank of Bordeaux. To include this offer in a socially innovative approach, by relying on local associations and structures on the one hand, and artists on the other hand. The former are in the best position to identify and mobilise resources, while the latter are responsible for restoring them in the most unique way possible. 

Very quickly, three tandems were formed to create three atypical courses: Rugby Sound Story imagined between the sound designer Eddy Ladoire and the Lormont – Hauts de Garonne rugby club, The Walk of Samuel J. Lewis created by the author Christophe Dabitch in complicity with two heritage associations of Bassens and finally 7 family recipes designed by the illustrator and graphic designer Guillaumit and Les Gourmandignes (association for the maintenance of peasant agriculture). 

A mobile app for independent discovery, events to get together.

Le LABA ask the three tandems to think about how the routes will be proposed to the public. “The digital dimension was certainly essential for us, but not sufficient. We also asked them to think about collective and shared times for visits and meetings, times between the associations involved and the public,” explains Hervé Castelli, in charge of the project at Le LABA. 

Today, each of the routes can be followed free of charge and independently with a smartphone and by using the Listeners app, an augmented reality sound system developed by Eddy Ladoire. The principle is quite simple. The sounds, music or texts of the course are triggered when you pass close to one of the geolocalized terminals of the route. 

For 7 family recipes, the different stages allow you to discover the architectural, urban, agricultural and natural heritage of the city in connection with the cultural and culinary richness of its inhabitants. All this through stories and recipes. Stéphanie Labadie, cook and sound journalist, worked on the soundtrack, while the artist and graphic designer Guillaumit deployed his geometric shapes, his cartoon spirit and his vitaminized chromatic range to illustrate it. 

After the effort, the comfort

The objective of creating geolocated routes on smartphones achieved, the second dimension of the project still needed to be developed: events to be experienced and shared. Thus, for 7 family recipes, the partners imagined a one-day trip to discover gourmet dishes, inhabitants and unusual places in the city of Cenon. Programmed in advance and on reservation, at the rate of 10 €, this walk in 7 stages and 10 km is done in… 6 hours!  

In this month of July 2019, equipped with good shoes, about twenty participants are ready to take up the challenge. The walk begins on the heights of Palmer Park, which offers an exceptional panoramic view of Bordeaux and the meeting with Rachelle, a shepherdess who grazes her sheeps there. The opportunity to taste in her company chickpea balls with dates and onions, filled with goat cheese and breaded in fine semolina. The walk then continues in a “hidden house” which opens its doors for the occasion and treats you to a vegetarian bite to eat. Then, stop at Zeina the Lebanese with her Fatouche, an incredibly fresh salad. At the Saint-Romain cemetery, discovery of the ajo blanco, a soup with Spanish accents that reminds us how much this community counts here. A change of atmosphere in Nathalie’s agroecological garden, where walkers are treated to zucchini flowers stuffed with aromatic herbs and nasturtium flowers. Then it’s the turn of the Vielle Cure, a former distillery with remarkable buildings. There, echoing some of the 52 ingredients used at the time to make the liqueur, you can taste an Espuma of lemon balm, mushrooms and cinnamon on crackers flavoured with fennel seeds. End of the agapes (and the long walk) in the company of Florence and Lucas who prepared a raspberry shortbread from the garden and an unforgettable verbena ice cream. “The process of connection between people who had no vocation to meet and build together, between associations, artists and inhabitants is exciting” rejoices Hervé Castelli, while the participants, full, exhausted and happy, separate. They all leave with the feeling of having discovered in a particularly singular and convivial way a little piece of territory that was hitherto unknown to them… 

Practical informations

http://www.7recettesdefamille.eu

http://courts-circuits-nouvelleaquitaine.eu

© Sonia Moumen (exchange reporter) for Champs Libres, member of Kus Alliance France

Lighting by Yassir Yebba

Novembre 21, 2019

In order to enlighten the European partners on the issues related to the launch of a food truck activity by young people, Yassir Yebba gave a conference. He preferred the word “inclusion” to “insertion”. Excerpts to better understand his thoughts… 

“If you want to be active in your life, you have to find a way to become your own hero, from a simple resume to what I call a synopsis. On the one hand, you’re just an actor in a system or a company that provides you with a job. On the other, you’re offering a story to people.”

“Writing your story is obviously a lot easier if you have a script. So you have to think about what your ordinary world is, but also your extraordinary world. What your super powers would be if you had them.”

“For me the passage from insertion to inclusion is to accept oneself as human, to live one’s life from H to H, that means from human to human, from history to history, from heritage to heritage. If I do not accept who I am, with my own heritage, with my own history, I will not really find my place.”

“The problem in the food industry is getting people to pay, not just for the product but for the people, for the stories behind the product. The model of inclusion has to create value. That’s what I call recognition.”

Yassir Yebba

The cooking anthropologist

Within the framework of the European project, several operators from Europe were able to exchange with Yassir Yebba. Both an anthropologist and a cook, he has a particularly interesting perspective on food. A meeting with a man of conviction and action. 

Anthropologist and cook, that’s not a trivial association. How did you come to this ? 

I’m from a modest background. My Moroccan parents arrived in France when I was five years old. They couldn’t read or write, had never been to school, however I realized that they were people who knew. This led me to be interested in the thought that comes from the hands. The German philosopher Martin Heidegger says the same thing when he writes “thinking is manual work”. He is neither the first nor the last to have said it, and many contemporary philosophers are trying to reconcile these two generally opposed universes. For example, I find the approach of the American Matthew B. Crawford who gave up his brilliant academic career to set up a motorcycle repair shop very interesting… From this experience, he wrote a book, Praise the Carburetor – An Essay on the Meaning and Value of Work. I am one of those intellectuals who say that doing is a way of thinking. I wouldn’t be a good anthropologist if I didn’t do things with my hands every day. 

Could you have chosen plumbing or carpentry over cooking ? 

Cooking came into my life 20 years ago. I was 30 at the time. I had just separated from my partner, our son was still very young. I felt the need to cook for him. It was a way for me to take care of him and to pass on something of my culture to him. I’m Moroccan by the belly, so I passed on my culture to him by making him food. 

I came to the kitchen first as a dad, it was only afterwards that I realized that I thought better when I was cooking.  

What happened next ? 

I left university to create Territoires alimentaires (“Food Territories”), my own research laboratory and Le Goût du monde (“The Taste of the world”), an event cooking company. For example, I developed gourmet conferences: convivial moments that combine intellectual reflection on food and gourmet proposals. The idea behind these meetings is simple: think as well as you eat and eat as well as you think. I am not a caterer but a “well-caterer”. What’s important for me is that making food is to be in the concrete pleasure of caring for others. I have worked a lot on the notion of the chain of care. 

You did food anthropology long before you became a professional cook…

I first started by doing cultural anthropology by taking an interest in the Berbers in the Moroccan countryside and mountains. In situ, I saw that these people were happy because they were in touch with nature, with the soil. It was from the soil that they built a society. With them, I realized that food was a wonderful link to life. 

You also make the connection between food and language…

The first thing a human being eats are words. Food is the first language. That’s something that struck me among the Berbers: people who spoke Berber every day ate well every day. When I returned to France, I looked if the same links between speaking and eating existed. I found the same phenomena in rural areas and in the peasantry in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, the region where I live. The places where regional languages are spoken (Poitevin-Saintongeais, Occitan, Gascon, Basque) are also the places where you eat best. Let’s take the example of the Basques. There is a close link between food and language. The Basques are people who feed their culture. 

You regularly castigate industrial food…

It’s what we eat that makes us who we are. We are what we eat. We eat something badly made, we participate in our own social downgrading. If we eat industrial food, we end up thinking industrial. At the supermarket, we serve ourselves like in a catalogue, but our dignity as human beings is to know how to think, to understand how it grows. It’s better to pick than to open a packet. We have to make food an experience again. My modest parents were magnificent bobos: they ate locally and in short circuits. I do the same. For example, I only eat meat that I slaughtered myself. 

Making the right products available to everyone is a sign of a healthy society. I like to quote Claude Levis-Strauss, “It is not enough that a food is good to eat, it must also be good to think”. 

You say, “I’m from where I eat, I’m from here because I eat here every day. I eat French landscapes” could you explain ?

In my research, I developed the concept of “repaysement” which is the appeasement of the landscape. But the landscape is also accessible through the plate. When I go to Morocco I bring with me good French things so as not to be disorientated and vice versa: I use Moroccan spices in French cuisine. I feel a great appeasement to recognize in an organic way what I am, where I am. What feeds us is what constitutes us, that’s for sure. 

Practical information

Yassir Yebba

yassiryebba.fr

© Sonia Moumen (exchange reporter) for Champs Libres, member of Kus Alliance France

The Estey’s Bistrots

Novembre 27, 2019

The team of the Estey Social and Cultural Center of Bègles presented its Bistrot Mobile device to several European operators from Malta, Ireland, England and Germany. A look back at a meeting about a nomadic cooking initiative like no other.

On this November morning, it’s chilly in the huge hall of the Estey Social and Cultural Center in Bègles, a town of 27,000 inhabitants near Bordeaux. In the center of the room, about twenty people are crowded around an astonishing bicycle-carriole: “Bistrot mobile de l’Estey”. This strange kitchen bike is the emblem of a street food project, one of the main objectives is the integration of young people in difficulty. 

Here, no pizzas, hamburgers or kebabs, but “batbots”

For Le LABA, the organizing structure of the week of training and exchange around street food in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, the Bistrot mobile is an essential project, as Margaux Velez points out. “It enables young people to gain their first professional experience and acquire the basic skills of a foodtrucker: product supply, stock management, food preparation, service and customer relations. It was important for us to share this experience between cooking and integration with our European partners”. 

Initiated by Charline Fournier and a group of volunteers who are particularly active within the social center, this mini-food truck allows young people – most often minors and in great academic, social or economic difficulty – to have their first professional experience around street food. But beware! Here, no pizzas, hamburgers or kebabs, but traditional Moroccan bread with toppings. Although these “batbots” require few ingredients (flour, semolina, yeast, salt, olive oil and water), they do require quite a bit of skill. Fatima, a great batbot specialist and initiator of young people in this field, is today demonstrating it in front of the participants. She vigorously kneads the dough before making balls and lining them up on a hotplate. While the balls are resting, she joins the group for the continuation of Charline’s presentation of the project. 

Le Bistrot: precursor of the Bistrot mobile

It all started a few years ago with the creation of the Estey Bistrot. Located in the heart of the social center, it has a professional kitchen and a stylishly decorated dining room. In this light-filled place, the inhabitants of the neighbourhood can come and have lunch three times a week. The full menu (starter, main course, dessert) is €6.50. The price of a canteen, except that here, the contents of the plate have nothing to do with a canteen! The service is done by the plate, we take our time, the flavours of the world are never far away and we don’t hesitate to vary the pleasures by inviting from time to time a chef, an inhabitant, an association to take the reins in the kitchen. 

This week, it is Chef Nicolas Cajal who is at the helm alongside the volunteers and employees. Participants will soon taste his cuisine: a fresh starter made with carrot and soy passion sauce, a dish of the day that subtly mixes salmon steak, green lentils and red wine sauce and, finally, delicious fruit profiteroles. “I like to cook healthy and tasty dishes with seasonal products and short circuits” explains Nicolas, who is also convinced, like the Estey team, that cooking creates bonds and facilitates social and professional integration. Integration is the other facet of the Estey Bistrot. Ghizlane and Marina, in the service and in the kitchen, are proof of this, as they are part of the “Employment-Skills Path” scheme, the aim of which is the sustainable inclusion in employment of people furthest from the labour market. 

Another face of youth

Although the Bistrot meets the objectives of sustainable integration and training pathways for adults, the Estey Bistrot needed more work targeted at the integration and mobilisation of young people, and more specifically 15-19 year olds who have dropped out of school or who have dropped out altogether. It was for them that Charline Fournier came up with the idea of the Bistrot mobile, an original and “agile” version of the year-round Bistrot. From the making of the breads to consumer relations, young people identified by the partner structures (ITEP, APSB, the city’s employment service or local mission) are invited for a week to discover all the stages in the life of this unique street kitchen. To accompany them, professionals and volunteers take turns. “With our partners and a group of 4 to 5 volunteers, we worked for 18 months to set up the Bistrot Mobile,” says Charline. “In the summer of 2018, we organized our first action by going from neighborhood to neighborhood to offer our breads”. In all, ten young people between 15 and 18 years old were able to train and work for a week each with real working conditions: “The young people were paid. They were given a contract and working hours. This committed them and was a real step for their future professional life” explains Charline, who is particularly proud to have been able to mobilise financial partners around the scheme. 

Buns to make young people grow up

However, she does not minimize the difficulties: “With sometimes 120 filled breads to prepare and serve in one evening, the workload was sometimes heavy and working five days in a row was difficult for some young people”. However, the benefits seem obvious, as Benoît, a householder at ITEP in Bègles, an establishment for handicapped children and teenagers that is a partner in the project, testifies. He participated and followed all the stages of the Bistrot Mobile and for him, “the mix of people, the change of place, of context, the fact of working with volunteers, outside the walls, all this has been extremely beneficial for our young people”. Marie, deputy director of ITEP, is also convinced by the project: “young people are moving from being passive youths to being citizens, actors and active”. As for Michel, a specialist educator, he welcomes the fact that “if the Bistrot Mobile is a place of reconciliation of young people with adults, it also allows the reconciliation of the young person with himself/herself. He/She can prove that he/she is capable of doing something positive”. 

“Doing something positive” seems to be the leitmotiv even for the volunteers who work on the project from the beginning. “It shows another face of youth,” explains Josiane. Esther is also enthusiastic: “Working with young people, I really enjoyed it, I don’t have another word for it. By listening to them, you learn a lot of things too: about computers, high tech, football, life and the street! It’s a human discovery that’s different every time! ». Fatima concludes with a smile: “The best moments? Those spent with these young people of course! ” 

Go and see what’s happening elsewhere in Europe

While Fatima bakes her breads on a hot plate, a bit like pancakes, the exchanges around the project continue in two groups. This is an opportunity for Le LABA’s European partners to ask technical, financial or organisational questions but also to react: “It’s a really interesting case study. Social centers elsewhere in Europe have the same problems, especially with young people in difficulty. This street food scheme is very inspiring” says Patricia Golden, project manager and volunteer for Momentum Marketing Services Ltd in Ireland. “The Bistrot Mobile ensures that each young person becomes an actor in the project and in some way an actor in his or her own life. It’s a really interesting accompaniment” says Eva-Maria Stroh, a social worker at Kiezkuechen Gmbh in Berlin. Charline can’t believe the interest that the Bistrot Mobile triggers: “It’s great! Listening to their reactions, I realise that what we are doing, without being extraordinary, is still very singular! It adds value to what we do… and also makes you want to go and see what’s happening elsewhere in Europe! “. 

Practical information

Bistrot et Bistrot mobile de l’Estey

20 rue Pierre et Marie Curie
33130 Bègles

Tel +33 (0)5 57 35 13 00

https://estey.mairie-begles.fr/

https://estey.mairie-begles.fr/le-bistrot-de-lestey/

https://www.facebook.com/centresocialetcultureldebegles/

© Sonia Moumen (exchange reporter) for Champs Libres, member of Kus Alliance France

In the European project KUS KUS, migrants are enabled to develop economic and professional skills that will help them to realize their dream of starting their own business in the gastronomy sector.

The meeting of the regional alliance took place on 19.12.19 in the rooms of the kiezküchen “alte Mensa“.
Representatives of learners interested in a professional future in gastronomy, representatives of the vocational school centre “Brillat-Savarin“, the Chamber of Industry and Commerce and representatives of educational institutions were present, to test the learning formats developed in the project and to establish a regional alliance.

Afterwards, cross-cultural dishes were prepared with local products and eaten together with the students in the training kitchen.

The afternoon ended with an intensive exchange of experiences.